The struggle before

Dull thwack on unshaven leg

The suck and pull

Panting and gasping

Until, with supreme effort

Neoprene clad to meet

The world

The walk towards

Blurry and hurried

Sharp stones under plasticised feet

Wind pummelling board

The long trek

Down steps

And across seaweed strewn sand

The race to the sea

Gathering pace

Laughing and rushing

And finally running

Leaving a half clad man

In your wake

Jumping and wading through

Foamy white shallows

To reach the waves

Crashing and fiercely

Roaring in your ears

Or gentler and rolling

Whispering enticements

Waiting for that small pull

Under foot

Signals a good one

The jump

The hope

And you catch it

Breath rushing

Heart pounding

At eye level with the water

It’s rushing intoxication

All the way in

Lying laughing on the sand.